Drunkard's Path QAL, Block 6

Squeezing this post in before the end of June. There's not much to report for the Drunkard's Path QAL other than I now have 6 out of 9 blocks done for my Christmas quilt. Here's my June block . . . #6

I love how they look when they come together. I've already sewn the first three blocks into a row.

This week I'll sew the second row together. Gotta love progress however small it may seem.

The last three blocks are cut and ready to be sewn. One each month taking me into September to have all nine blocks finished. Six of these little bags are now empty . . . just three more to go.

Then in October I'll add borders. I'm leaning toward this version right now. See the other options here.

That leaves November to quilt and bind. Still seems quite doable. While I may take my time getting certain projects done, I don't usually spread out the blocks. For this quilt, the block-a-month method has been working quite well. It doesn't feel like a big commitment and yet knowing I will have a new quilt for Christmas is very motivating. I've wanted to make a new holiday quilt for years but usually never thought about it until November, so of course it never got made. Year after year after year. Now, I'm looking forward to having a brand new Christmas quilt for 2015. Just saying that makes me even more committed to getting it done.   : )

There's till time  . . . why don't you jump in and join the fun. If you're not up for nine Drunkard's Path blocks, then make three or four for a table runner. At least one other reader is doing just that. The block width of 16" makes for a nice sized runner. You can find all the information here.

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Drunkard's Path QAL: Block 5

The start of a new month and time for another Drunkard's Path block for the QAL. This is block #5.

If you're playing along with me, give yourself a big pat on the back!!! You're halfway there now with five of nine blocks done for the QAL. Just four more to go and then it will be time for borders. If you choose to add borders that is. I'm still undecided and will wait until all my blocks are done before committing one way or the other. Right now I'm leaning toward this version.

There are several good possibilities on how to handle the addition of borders. I'll address the border specifics in a later post as the time gets closer. For now though, be sure to check out last month's QAL post, Layout Ideas, to see all the other layout ideas in addition to the one above..

I've found that making one block a month has made this Christmas quilt seem quite doable. Otherwise I'd probably think about a Christmas quilt in November and never get started in time to finish for the holidays. I can definitely see a new Christmas quilt done by December. That's a good feeling.  : )

How about you . . . do you spread out the process? Do you have more than one project partially made at a time? I often have several projects in various stages at any given time. I don't usually stretch out the time when actually sewing the blocks though. Most of the time I do all (or most) of the cutting, then sew all the blocks, then piece the rows into the top.

Once I have a finished top is when the "stretching things out part" really starts.  I'm not known for finishing, finishing, as in a quilted and bound quilt. That's an area I'm trying to improve upon by participating in the Finish Along hosted by Adrianne of On the Windy Side. It's paying off too because I won a gift certificate from The Fat Quarter Shop during the first quarter finishes link-up. WaHoo!!!!

Linking up with WIP Wednesday at Freshly Pieced.
Also linking with Fabric Tuesday at Quilt Story.

Drunkard's Path QAL: Layout Ideas & Piecing Tips

It's already slipping past the middle of April . . . how did that happen so fast?

April means it's time to sew the fourth Drunkard's Path block for the QAL. Just one block a month and by the end of September you'll have nine blocks done which is enough for a lovely Christmas quilt with  a couple of months left to finish it up. That's my plan anyway.

Here's my April block. This is one of the darker, more red ones. For the other blocks, some lean toward pinkish reds, others toward the orange side. The range of reds and the subtle value shifts will really add to the overall variety when the blocks come together.

As I've worked on my blocks I've noted a couple of tips that might help as you piece your blocks.

1.   Pinning the edge of the quarter circle and the end of the L-shaped leg together so the edges stay even with each other really helps keep everything aligned. I like to pin the edge where I will start sewing at an angle so my machine foot has room to take a few stitches before bumping into the pin. (See below left)  At the opposite end, I pin both parallel and very close to the edge. (See below right)  This works for me, so if you are having trouble with the ends aligning, give this a try.

2.   The second tip is in regard to piecing the Drunkard's units together. As your sewing machine foot nears the curved seam, you may find the bulk of the curved seam tends to push your foot to the right making it difficult to maintain your 1/4" seam allowance. By anticipating this, slowing down and even using a stiletto or the tip of a small pair of scissors, you can ease the foot over this bulk and maintain the correct seam allowance. This seam should end up coming in right along the edge of the curved seam. See the circled area below. If the seam does gets pushed too far off course, you can just go back in and resew this area without any need to rip out stitches.

When this seam is sewn correctly, your curves come together in a nice continuous curved line without any background fabric showing. (see below)  If too much background peeks out, you might want to resew the seam by taking a bit wider seam allowance. I want you to know that not all my seam connections are perfect by any means, so please, please don't stress about this point.

Speaking of blocks coming together, I though it might be a good time to show you a few layout options. Especially since some of you might be surging ahead with making more than one block a month. CJTDecatur on Instagram already has 12 blocks done. WaHoo!! Way to go!! Check out  #drunkardspathquiltalong to see them.

The illustrations below show quilt layouts using nine blocks plus some table runner ideas. If you opt for a table runner, you can add as many blocks as you'd like. I've shown it with three. And of course your quilt can certainly have more or less than nine blocks. Nine just happens to work for my plan.

1.  First up is a borderless arrangement. Most of my quilts these days do not have borders. I prefer the design going all the way to the sides and engaging the edge. This is what I thought I'd do, but now that I see the options, I'm liking some other possibilities. This layout finishes at 48" x 48". A nice wall hanging size.

2.  Here's how it looks if you add a simple border. In this case the width of a single unit.
Final size 56" x 56"

3.  Here it's shown with a scrappy pieced border. The checkerboard border somehow just says Christmas and adds a festive touch. Final size 60" x 60"

4.  Another option would be to add lattice strips and cornerstones? This opens up the design and gives the blocks a little breathing room. Each block now becomes more distinct and stands on it's own merit which can be good if you'd like to showoff the individual blocks and fabrics. 56" x 56"

5.  Here's an option that spices up the border by adding petals into the space along the edge. This idea activates the edge and makes the flowers seem more expansive. 56" x 56"

6.  The last idea expands upon #5 by adding petals and lattice strips between the blocks as well as the outer edges. The flowers look even more expansive and the space even more active. It also creates some interesting white spaces in the middle that add to the swirling feeling. 64" x 64"

These are just a few of the ways you could choose to arrange your blocks. There are certainly other options as well. I hope this gives you something to think about. Play around and enjoy the process.

Keep in mind the finished blocks are 16" x 16". The addition of borders or lattice adds to the overall dimension, so base your decisions not only on the look you like but also the quilt size you need. You could make more or less blocks to fit your needs. A smaller wall quilt with just four blocks might be perfect for the holidays. Or a larger quilt with 12 blocks would make a nice throw quilt. My quilt is meant to hang on the wall of our family room for the holidays, so available wall space dictates my final size. That's one reason why #5 just might be the perfect option. The final size would be 56" x 56". That's a good size for my space and it could work well as a throw too.

To see what others are doing, check out  #drunkardspathquiltalong on Instagram and please add your blocks to the show. You can also now follow me on Instagram  @springleafstudios

See you next month with block five.   Happy QAL.    : )

Drunkard's Path Quilt Along 2015, Piecing

Welcome back. It's time to start sewing.

Hopefully, you've all had a chance to select your fabrics and maybe even cut one blocks worth of pieces. The template and cutting directions can be found here in case you still need to do that part. And if you missed yesterday's post on block design exploration, you really should check it out. Really. In the post I show four optional ways the drunkard's path units can be arranged for some amazing looking blocks.

You can also now link to every Drunkard's Path Quilt Along post by clicking on the button above or going to the Quilt Along tab found at the top of this page. So let's begin . . . 

Piecing:

I want to start by telling you not to be afraid of curved piecing. Even though it seems like it would be hard, I promise you it really isn't. You just need to be brave, find your quilting mojo, and jump in. You won't know until you try. There are many great resources available and many techniques, so do what works best for you. 

I prefer to use a minimum of pins and go slowly. If using more pins works better for you then by all means use them. Here's my method:

1.  Make a crease in the middle of both the quarter circle and leg pieces by folding each piece in half and giving it a good finger press. If you can't see the crease, try using an iron just on the edge for a stronger crease. I prefer to make my creases by folding the quarter circle right sides in and the leg piece right sides out. This way the creases nest nicely when the two pieces are placed together.  

TIP: if you feel more comfortable using more pins then I suggest you also make additional creases by folding the halves in half again so you have three creases to align. I've exaggerated the creases here so you can see them.

2.  With right sides together, align the creases and pin in place directly through the crease.

3.  Pull the short leg ends around and align them with the straight edges of the quarter circle. Pin in place close to the edges. I find pinning close to the ends helps keep the top fabric from creeping past the bottom one. It's going to look very odd, but believe me, it all will sew together just fine.

 

4.  Using a 1/4"seam allowance, sew the two pieces together. I prefer to sew with the leg piece on top so I can see how it needs to be eased into the curve. If you find it easier to sew with the circle on top that's fine. Try it both ways and do what works best.

I use my left hand to pull the leg edge into alignment with the curve while using the tip of my small scissors or a stylus to hold the two layers together just in front of the needle. It may look like you're going to sew in little tucks but most of the time it's just the excess fabric to the left of the needle. If it's a serious tuck, raise the presser foot and ease the top fabric into place.

As you approach the end, be sure the fabric is still aligned with both ends even with one another. This is where I find it tends to end up misaligned. That's why I pin close to the edge in such a way as to ensure the ends stay together.

5.  When you're done sewing it's going to look a little bunched up. Don't worry. No need to clip any curves. A good hot press smooths it all out nice and flat. Press the seam toward the quarter circle. This is very important because the seam needs to be out of the way when it's time to sew the units together.

TIP:  If by chance you did sew in a tiny tuck, try ironing it out with a little steam. If this doesn't work, you can usually rip out just a few stitches near the tuck and then resew that area by easing it into place.

6.  Trimming. Align a small square ruler so the 4 1/2" ruler marks line up with the corner of the quarter circle. Trim the leg sides so there is 1/4" outside the curved seam on both leg pieces. The finished trim size should be 4 1/2" x 4 1/2".  You shouldn't need to trim the quarter circle side unless it stretched a bit during piecing. The most important part here is the 1/4"seam allowance along the leg edges so when units are sewn together the quarter circles meet and no background shows.

7.  If you haven't seen the optional block arrangements in this previous post, now would be the time to take a look just in case you'd like to use one of them instead of the arrangement I'm using. Otherwise continue on . . .

Layout all 16 units into the block design using the photo below as reference. Take care to be sure the placement is correct with like red prints paired together and like green prints paired together including the matching green leg. It can be easy to get them turned around. 

Once you're happy with the arrangement, break the block apart into four quarters as shown below.

8.  Working one quadrant at a time, sew the matching petal units together; red with red, green with green. Press the seams open. Next, sew these two units together to finish the quadrant. Take time to match the seams in the center. Press the seams open.

TIP:  The bulk from the curved seam allowance has a tendency to push your foot off to the right as you approach the center. Taking it slow and watching for this helps.

Check to be sure that no background is showing where the two petal sections come together. If your seam has slipped over due to the bulk of the nearby seam, slowly sew over that area again and repress.

NOTE:  If you normally aren't an open seam presser, I understand. I'm not either. But in this case it really does make for an easier block to sew together plus a flatter finished block.

In the photos below, the first shows how the curves should join together . . . a nice, smooth transition where the curves come together with no background showing. The second photo has a sliver of the background showing. Not the end of the world by any means. With something as minimal as the second photo, I'd leave it alone rather than get too worried.

9.  Sew the units together by matching seams to complete the block. Press the final seams open.

Congratulations!  You've just finished your first Drunkard's Path block for the quilt along. Now it's up to you whether you feel motivated to keep piecing or make them one at a time each month along with me. I'll be posting my latest finished block each month here and on Instagram. You can add your blocks  at #DrunkardsPathQuiltAlong.

As the blocks come along, I'll also be looking at border options and other ways to finish up. And don't be surprised if I start another quilt too. I'm having so much fun with the design, it's hard to not start another.  : )

Thanks for sewing along with me.  I can't wait to see what you make.

Drunkard's Path Quilt Along; Block Explorations

Block Design Explorations;  A look at some optional ways to arrange the drunkard's path units. 

I know I said in the last post the piecing directions would be next . . . but . . . I just have to share these block explorations with you before we get into the piecing. I've also added a link to the button below that will take you to the main Quilt Along page so you can navigate to all the posts from one place.

Yesterday I made a Drunkard's Path block for one of my bee mates. I used a yellow/pink/coral selection of fabrics and found it quite fun to play with a different color grouping. I'm very happy with the results.  What do you think? It's got me wishing for spring and flowers and warmer temps.

In the process, I also played with some alternative arrangements of the Drunkard's Path units within the block. Today, I'd like to share those explorations before we move on to piecing. I think you'll find this quite fun and interesting and it will give you a chance to play around a little and decide which arrangement you like best before you sew your block together. Who knows . . . it might even be just the nudge you need to join the quilt along.  : )

The original block layout was designed with poinsettias in mind because I'm making a Christmas quilt. This arrangement makes me think of the pointy petals of poinsettias. This is the arrangement that will be used for all sewing instructions, but the sewing won't be much different for the other options. All the explorations use the same 16 drunkard's path units. The only difference is the way they are arranged in the block.

The following photos all include the seam allowance thus the little extra fabric on the leg pieces. Just remember the circles will come together with no gaps between shapes in the finished block. To help see the changes, think of the block in four quadrants with each quadrant having a red/green combination.

Original block:  the red and green units within each quadrant form identical petal shapes that are positioned side by side. Each quadrant in the block is simply rotated to get the overall design. This is my Christmas poinsettia. This design features red petals in the foreground with green leaves behind the red. In the bee block above, it's all petals and no leaves which works equally as well.

Original Layout

Option 1:  Rotate the position of the red units so they go in the opposite direction of the green. The result is a tulip shape of half red/half green petals in each quadrant. A green center results with this arrangement. The green units stay in the same position.

Option1

Option 2:  Leave the inner red units in the same position as option 1 but rotate the outer red units so red half circles are formed. The green units stay in the same position.

Option 2

Option 3:  Flip the entire set of red units so they meet in the center like a pinwheel. Be sure to keep the red units with the green legs in the center so they flow into the green units. The green units stay in the same position.

Option 3

Option 4:  Leave the red units the same as Option 3 and rotate the outer green units in the corners only so they form green half circles.

Option 4

I hope these explorations have inspired you to think about all the ways you can sew your Drunkard's Path units together. If you like one better than the original poinsettia version, then by all means make that one instead. If you like them all, then consider making a sampler type quilt? Or choose your two favorite block options and alternate them in your final quilt layout. Lots to think about. Lots to play around with once you start sewing.

The next post on piecing will follow soon. Don't forget you can go here to see all the previous Quilt Along posts.  Thanks for reading.

Quilt Along 2015, Time to Get Started

I've been teasing you with my first two posts about the Drunkard's Path Quilt Along 2015. Now it's time to actually get started. You can read the intro here, and I really suggest checking out the second post here, which shows optional fabric choices. Just because my quilt is meant to be a Christmas quilt certainly doesn't mean yours has to be. There are sooo many other possibilities.

The design is based on a Drunkard's Path block with a slight variation. A traditional Drunkard's Path block would look like the small block shown below in the upper left corner. 

Notice how the quarter circle does not come all the way out to the corners of the square. The result is a leg that breaks up the design giving a staggered appearance when several blocks are put together. This style of Drunkard's Path block creates a lot of interesting designs. Just search for Drunkard's Path quilt designs and you'll find several.

However for the purposes of my design, I wanted the quarter circle to come all the way to the corner of the square and flow unbroken into the next block. This variation feels more modern to me and lends itself to many wonderful possibilities. I might even have new designs to show you down the road.

Quilt Basics:

• Each Drunkard's path unit made up of 1 quarter circle and 1 leg finishes at 4"x 4" 
• There are 16 units per block for this design.
• Each block finishes at 16" x 16"
• A quilt of 9 blocks set in 3 rows of 3 blocks will be 48" x 48" without borders. 

I haven't decided yet about borders. I've sketched up the quilt both ways but am taking a wait-and-see approach. Most of my quilts do not have borders and I like it that way. In this case, I may want them if I feel they complete the design better, plus they would also make the quilt a bit bigger. But I'll be using my quilt as a wall hanging for the holidays so a bigger size isn't so much of an issue. I'll take a look at borders in a future post and show you some options.

Templates:

Go here to download a PDF of the templates. Be sure to print at 100% to get the correct size. I have included a 1" scale box on the template for reference. All printers are different. For some reason, I need to print at 98% to get a true 100% on my printer. Go figure.

I recommend using quilter's plastic available at most quilt and craft stores to cut your templates. It's more durable than cardboard and easy to cut. If you don't have plastic, any stiff cardboard like cereal boxes will do just as well. The easiest way to cut the templates is to glue the printed copy directly to your chosen template substrate and then cut out with an exacto or sharp paper scissors. Just be accurate.

NOTE: The leg template is drawn to include an extra 1/4" on the two outside straight sides. That's why they measure 4 3/4" while the quarter circles are 4 1/2" along the straight sides. I did this because the end of the leg only needs to be 1/2" wide but this can be a little tricky to cut and sew since it's so narrow.  I prefer to leave the leg a bit wider and trim after the pieces are sewn. It's much easier to work with and more accurate in the long run. The quarter circle templates are the exact size. More on trimming will be in the next post. Just don't forget it before you start sewing the pieced units together or you'll end up with a traditional style Drunkard's Path.

Yardage:

Yardage will vary depending on what size quilt and type of design you decide to go with. The cutting info below lists how many pieces you can get from various fabric cuts.

For each full block of the Christmas version like I'm doing you will need: 

1. 8 red quarter circles  (2 each of 4 different prints per block)
2. 8 green quarter circles  (2 each of 4 different prints per block)
3. 4 green leg pieces  (1 each of the same 4 green prints from step 2)
4. 12 background leg pieces  (I am using 4 each of 3 different light green on white prints) 

For the 9 blocks total that I'm making I will need:

1. 72 red quarter circles  (2 each of an assortment of prints, feel free to duplicate prints, just remember they need to be in pairs of two)
2. 72 green quarter circles  (2 each of an assortment of prints, duplicate prints in pairs of 2)
3. 36 green leg pieces  (1 each to match each pair from step 2)
4. 108 background leg pieces  (I'm using 36 each of 3 light green on white prints but you could just as easily use all the same fabric in the background.) 

Cutting:

For quarter circle:

Cut strips 4 1/2" wide. Use the quarter circle template to trace and cut the number of pieces needed per fabric. The most economical way is to flip the template back and forth to get the most pieces from each strip. You should be able to get approximately 8-9 quarter circles from one width of fabric strip or at least 16 from a fat quarter if the templates are tucked in. If you're using scraps you'll need pieces at least 4 1/2" x 8 1/4" for each pair of quarter circles.

For leg pieces:

Cut strips 4 3/4" wide. Use the template to trace and cut the number of pieces needed per fabric. You should be able to get approximately 12 leg pieces from one width of fabric strip or about 24 from a fat quarter if the templates are tucked in. If you're using scraps, one 4 3/4" x 5 3/4" rectangle will give you two leg pieces. 

Preparation:

I decided to cut all the pieces for all 9 blocks at one time. I find it easier and more time efficient to cut all at once while I have all the fabrics pulled out. I even placed them on my design wall to see which fabrics I wanted to repeat and how to distribute them around the quilt. You can see below that I repeated several fabrics but generally no more than three times. I also grouped darker fabrics so that some of the blocks would be darker overall than others. The middle block in the top row is the first one sewn together so it looks smaller.

Once I liked the layout, I took a digital photographs of the overall layout AND each individual block for future reference. Then I removed the pieces from the wall one unit at a time, placing the leg piece on top of the correct quarter circle. I stacked all the units for that block and placed each stack in individual ziplock baggies labeled with row and block numbers. Now all I have to do is pull a baggie and sew when I have time. My plan is to sew blocks on guild sew days throughout the year. A project all ready to go. I really like that.   : )

Now you have the info you need to print your templates and get started with the cutting. Perhaps you'll opt to cut one block at a time rather than do them all at once like I did. Whatever works for you.

I'll be back in a few more days with the piecing instructions. See you then.